Concerning CLR Discovery

[PeterMengede]

I have my third CLR v1 non neo waiting to go in for repair in Brisbane Australia. The issue is that the driver has started dropping out shortly after start up. On the past two occassions the modules have been replaced.The authorised repairer now says that they aren't able to get parts from Atomic and thus my CLR may be dead. If I can get a copy of a schematic I have other techs who'll try diagnose and repair, however the Australian (former) distributor Independent Music does not have a schematic and doesn't know where to look for one. Can anyoine point me towards one so that I can have the thing repaired instead of dumping it. Thank you.

 

[KHAAAAAAANNNNNNN!!!!!!!!]

At this point if I had one that failed I'd probably use a class a/b power amp I already have and find a used 2 way active crossover, and use pink noise to get it as flat a possible.

 

[jay mitchell]

I have my third CLR v1 non neo waiting to go in for repair in Brisbane Australia. The issue is that the driver has started dropping out shortly after start up.

Please read this: CLR Trouble-shooting tips.

On the past two occassions the modules have been replaced.

That would be the entire electronics module, which is pretty much never necessary. The failure points are power supply and power amp modules, all of which are readily available from non-Atomic vendors. There are part numbers and vendors cited in this thread.

The authorised repairer now says that they aren't able to get parts from Atomic and thus my CLR may be dead.

See above. Your CLR can be repaired, and you aren't dependent on Atomic to get it done.

If I can get a copy of a schematic I have other techs who'll try diagnose and repair,

No schematic is required. The part(s) that will need replacing are plug 'n' play. Diagnosis is simple. See the above link.

One of the main motivations for my posting about CLRs, here and on other forums, is to enable owners to keep them going.

 

[jay mitchell]

At this point if I had one that failed I'd probably use a class a/b power amp I already have and find a used 2 way active crossover, and use pink noise to get it as flat a possible.

There's no need for such an extreme measure, and you'd end up with a speaker that has few of its most important attributes.