Concerning CLR Discovery

So, by your "logic," every, or at least very many
By my logic only a dumbass will place alu caps near elements which do heat and require heatsinks (like in actual case) or near extremely hot elements (i've seen some pedals w/ tubes & caps around) when device work in ambient temperature (=room).

So there are many of them? Well, many of them will fail or require be replaced in short time when caps will start drying faster & dying.

Market full of chinese shit & other people selling shit. Spacing elements add costs. Also in "music world" amateurs prefer to "play music and not measure the ripple", while PROs use correct stuff. Music half-pro-amateurs even plug their gear into different chargers and write later "idk if polarity was the same". So yes, there are tonns of shit and people buy it, use it, replace it.
 
By my logic only a dumbass will place alu caps near elements which do heat and require heatsinks (like in actual case) or near extremely hot elements (i've seen some pedals w/ tubes & caps around) when device work in ambient temperature (=room).

So there are many of them? Well, many of them will fail or require be replaced in short time when caps will start drying faster & dying.

Market full of chinese shit & other people selling shit. Spacing elements add costs. Also in "music world" amateurs prefer to "play music and not measure the ripple", while PROs use correct stuff. Music half-pro-amateurs even plug their gear into different chargers and write later "idk if polarity was the same". So yes, there are tonns of shit and people buy it, use it, replace it.
angry adam sandler GIF
 
"Cool" is not gonna happen, even with MkII amp modules and power supply.

The additional heat generated by operating at high levels will be pretty similar between original and MkII versions. The only significant difference is at idle.
So i bought a laser thermometer just to see what my temps were at idle. After 45 minutes one was 113 F the other 122 F.

With the fan on the hotter of the two ( as per prior photo) I later measured it at 83 F after 45 minutes. Tomorrow I'll try really heating them up by playing at volume for a few hours and see what I get then.

I have read that active heatsinks, or in this case an okified version, do help keep internal temps down as well. I will run the fan when jamming at home and just let them burn up at my once a week one hour gig.

I did see some 1.76 inch AC powered comp fans that had me thinking I could hook them to the heatsinks but not sure I'm that worried considering how little I actually play out anymore.
 
So i bought a laser thermometer just to see what my temps were at idle. After 45 minutes one was 113 F the other 122 F.
Depending on the thermometer and how it was used, that difference may or may not be significant. FYI, infrared thermometers - the laser is just an aiming aid, it has nothing to do with measuring temperature - can deliver inaccurate readings. However, assuming you carefully aim at exactly the same spot and take readings with the thermometer at the same distance, you can get reliable comparative readings.

For temperature measurements, I use a digital thermometer with K-type thermocouples - inexpensive, readily available, and more than sufficiently accurate - in direct contact with specific, easily-identifiable points on the heatsink. In my testing, the difference between a unit with the older PS and the current one is on the order of 40 degrees F. The former measures ca. 130F, the latter around 90. This difference is consistent with the impression I get when I touch the heatsinks. To be clear, the important temperature is the junction temperatures of the semiconductors in the unit, and there is no way to directly measure those temperatures. They will always exceed the heatsink temperature by an amount that depends on the total thermal resistance between the junctions and the ambient air and the device dissipation: the amount of electrical power that is dissipated as heat in the devices. The main rule of thumb is "cooler is better," within limits.
I have read that active heatsinks, or in this case an okified version, do help keep internal temps down as well.
Forced air movement over the heatsink does help. Ventilation openings in the plate would have helped as well, with no fan required. That would have required some additional steps in fabricating the plate and (possibly) modifications to the heatsink. I can't see a way to make it into anything less than a huge DIY project though, so I don't recommend that level of modification.
I will run the fan when jamming at home and just let them burn up at my once a week one hour gig.
My recommendation is to make sure to power them off when you're not using them.
 
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Depending on the thermometer and how it was used, that difference may or may not be significant. FYI, infrared thermometers - the laser is just an aiming aid, it has nothing to do with measuring temperature - can deliver inaccurate readings. However, assuming you carefully aim at exactly the same spot and take readings with the thermometer at the same distance, you can get reliable comparative readings.





My recommendation is to make sure to power them off when you're not using them.
I did measure both in the same fashion and in the same spot which feels like the warmest spot to my hand, right above input one's and two's knob in between them. Room temp was 69 F during test.

The only way I had to check the accuracy of the device was to point it at the walls of my refrigerator. The fridge read 37 which is what it's set at. The freezer read zero which is also correct. On multiple readings it did vary by as much as 4 degreees though. Other than that I don't know how to verify accuracy. That being said I'm going to order a thermometer with the attributes you mentioned just to see.

As to turning them off when not in use that has always been my practice. :)

Thanks for your reply.
 
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i bought a laser thermometer
Covid thermal cameras cost cheap and give great image. Even if in UI it's limited to the human range, it still can save the shots and you can open then in software.
I got for 80€ great 25fps hikvision.
 
I bought a digital thermometer with k coupler type probe and it read within a half degree of my laser guided infrared thermometer so I sent it back. Now that I know the laser is close enough I'll just keep that. The only thing I got it for was measuring the heatsink anyway.

I probably should buy a couple of the power supplies Jay linked but for now, I just bought two small fans at Wal Mart. They lower the heatsink temp by 35 degrees which brought both in at 85 F after 3 hours of playing. Not as cool as the bigger fan I had but it just looked okie and was a bit noisy. Besides, I only had one. For 15 bucks each this will help for now. At least I hope so.
1000007706.jpg
 
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I bought a digital thermometer with k coupler type probe and it read within a half degree of my laser guided infrared thermometer so I sent it back. Now that I know the laser is close enough I'll just keep that. The only thing I got it for was measuring the heatsink anyway.

I probably should buy a couple of the power supplies Jay linked but for now, I just bought two small fans at Wal Mart. They lower the heatsink temp by 35 degrees which brought both in at 85 F after 3 hours of playing. Not as cool as the bigger fan I had but it just looked okie and was a bit noisy. Besides, I only had one. For 15 bucks each this will help for now. At least I hope so.View attachment 40739
googly eyes CLR.jpg


Sorry. Couldn't help it.
 
Hear hear!
I had one of the original AA3s and also the Firebox and had many noise and behavior/performance issues with both of them.
I didn't start this thread as a pile-on against Atomic. It appears that you don't own a CLR and that you therefore won't benefit from the information I've provided here.

If you would like to air unrelated issues, please start another thread.
 
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