Boss GT-1000 (and possibly other things Boss...)

Dadbodblues said:
Yes I did, but I used the two outputs of the Core. I used a divider to pan the output left and right with the right output having the IR block with my IR of choice and left output with IR off. The right output with the IR sounded like the IR was distorted or that a dry signal of my preamp was mixed in with the IR.
Click to expand...
There are 2 things you need to be aware of:
If there is no active amp…the IR will do nothing. The workaround is to put an amp in a divider, and bypass it by choosing the other path.

Also, if you use the loop, check the setting, needs to be on ..iirc…the 3rd option that says “no aux”, else whatever goes into the return gets a split, and is routed to both main out, as well as the digital signal path, resulting in “direct sound mixed in”.
 
AFKAEjay(retired) said:
If there is no active amp…the IR will do nothing. The workaround is to put an amp in a divider, and bypass it by choosing the other path.
Click to expand...

Yeah, as said before, the entire cab business is super awkward on the GTs - unless you do it the Boss way. Which is what I decided to go for whenever I use it on its own.
 
Sascha Franck said:
Yeah, as said before, the entire cab business is super awkward on the GTs - unless you do it the Boss way. Which is what I decided to go for whenever I use it on its own.
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Yeah…some things are a bit unconventional maybe…but I always was able to do with it what I expected from it. Minor inconveniences ;)
 
AFKAEjay(retired) said:
but I always was able to do with it what I expected from it.
Click to expand...

Kinda similar here - but unfortunately that's not true for the amps. I was hoping they'd be decent pedal platforms, but for my taste, they're not.
Still quite happily using it, it's a super versatile pedalboard brain for me.
 
Sascha Franck said:
Kinda similar here - but unfortunately that's not true for the amps. I was hoping they'd be decent pedal platforms, but for my taste, they're not.
Still quite happily using it, it's a super versatile pedalboard brain for me.
Click to expand...
Recognizeable…it has been just that for me on pedalboard also for a couple of years…well…the core to be exact, together with an ES5.
I sold it when I got the QC…figured if I go back to hybrid / analog, I’d do that with the QC.
Replaced my “supersmall in a gigbag, which the core did”, with a kpp cause I also wasn’t 100% in on the amps…which was silly…cause the QC fits my (giant) gigbag also ;(
 
AFKAEjay(retired) said:
There are 2 things you need to be aware of:
If there is no active amp…the IR will do nothing. The workaround is to put an amp in a divider, and bypass it by choosing the other path.

Also, if you use the loop, check the setting, needs to be on ..iirc…the 3rd option that says “no aux”, else whatever goes into the return gets a split, and is routed to both main out, as well as the digital signal path, resulting in “direct sound mixed in”.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this, I'll have to check the "no aux", maybe that's my problem.
 
Fwiw, re: Mobile BTS not connecting
Roland's support got back at me (which is worth a thumbs up) and told me to completely remove the pairing (note: it was only paired but not connected) and let BTS retry do pair it (sorta internally), which actually did the trick. Quite weird and defenitely nothing you think about in the first place, especially given that all I did was updating BTS.
 
Got my GT1000-Core today :banana

photo_2025-03-07_13-28-12.jpg
So sexxy device & sounds nice! How i missed noise gate:giggle: !!
Will dig deeper into sound mod + into mobile app (wanna connect it to BT using midi2BT adapters).

Also.. PSU is horrrible. I tested and without load it have 114 mV of ripple pk2pk :eek:
That's fine to charge a battery but aren't fine to power a musical device. Sure, i think that they are added some filters inside but.. I will make linear PSU for 9V DC & upto 2-3A (original is 2A maxi, device takes ~670mA after the docs).

I will share the results when new PSU is done (i have to order all except the transformer which i have from an old Nespresso machine).

Also i pretty sure i will see huge difference on my scope and probably hear it too :)
 
Sascha Franck said:
let BTS retry do pair it (sorta internally), which actually did the trick
Click to expand...
Actually their mobile app get an access to your phone's BLE adapter and search devices & connect and do the rest, regarding their app's code (y)
Also, not checked deep, but it seems to support USB host communications too. I haven't installed their app yet, but does it offer it in the UI?

P.S. checked on `BTS for GT-1000 ver.4_4.0.0.apk`
 
nikitasius said:
Got my GT1000-Core today :banana

View attachment 39960
So sexxy device & sounds nice! How i missed noise gate:giggle: !!
Will dig deeper into sound mod + into mobile app (wanna connect it to BT using midi2BT adapters).

Also.. PSU is horrrible. I tested and without load it have 114 mV of ripple pk2pk :eek:
That's fine to charge a battery but aren't fine to power a musical device. Sure, i think that they are added some filters inside but.. I will make linear PSU for 9V DC & upto 2-3A (original is 2A maxi, device takes ~670mA after the docs).

I will share the results when new PSU is done (i have to order all except the transformer which i have from an old Nespresso machine).

Also i pretty sure i will see huge difference on my scope and probably hear it too :)
Click to expand...
Guessing it’s the same PSU as the full GT1K? I would like to find something more stage-friendly for mine.
 
nikitasius said:
Also.. PSU is horrrible.
Click to expand...

Defenitely! It's actually something Boss/Roland never got right. I have quite some of their PSUs and they're all utter shit, no less. Even a €9 PSU from Thomann is doing better. I'm driving mine through a Harley Benton multiout PSU and the difference is very, very noticeable.
 
Sascha Franck said:
Get anything supplying enough current and you'll be at least as fine as with the Boss one.
Click to expand...
Well.. in fact you should take something that aren't pulse.
How to detect? Pulse PSU is pretty lite and have kind of 100-240AC range. While linear PSU is kind of 220AC or 230AC or whatever your local. And it give stable 9V or 12v dc or what in specs.
It contain transformer, diode rectifier & caps + dc stab inside.
The advantage: ultra low ripple (1-3mV) and no RF crap. Issues w/ pulse is hight ripple & RF crap "resonance" which you can't remove w/ ferrite. And using LC filters aren't helps.

So take a heavy real transforner (classic or toroid) based PSU, a linear PSU.
 
Last edited:
nikitasius said:
Well.. in fact you should take something that aren't pulse.
How to detect? Pulse PSU is pretty lite and have kind of 100-240AC range. While linear PSU is kind of 220AC or 230AC or whatever your local. And it give stable 9V or 12v dc or what in specs.
It contain transformer, diode rectifier & caps + dc stab inside.
The advantage: ultra low ripple (1-3mV) and no RF crap. Issues w/ pulse is hight ripple & RF crap "resonance" which you can't remove w/ ferrite. And using LC filters aren't helps.

So take a heavy real transforner (classic or toroid) based PSU, a linear PSU.
Click to expand...
Why?…the stock one has always worked fine!
 
AFKAEjay(retired) said:
Why?…the stock one has always worked fine!
Click to expand...

Not exactly for me. Noticed it very badly on the first gig with just the GT. Fortunately I also had the HX Stomp PSU (and an adapter) with me, was way better. Sure, the noise was introduced by some lights or whatever, but it was almost gone when I exchanged the PSU.
 
Sascha Franck said:
Not exactly for me. Noticed it very badly on the first gig with just the GT. Fortunately I also had the HX Stomp PSU (and an adapter) with me, was way better. Sure, the noise was introduced by some lights or whatever, but it was almost gone when I exchanged the PSU.
Click to expand...
The things around and the PSU itself.

Take a look:

Ideal is diode bridge rectifier. People don't sell it widely cause of cost (the transformer itself is could be 20-30€). Also it's input AC depending. You build a model which work for 230V but could also take 220-240 AC and you will still get your 9V DC. You can't plug it in 110V and get 9V.
Pulse one you can. Original Roland is rated for 100-240V. So for 110V market area you have to build another and sell it only there. Schema aren't changes, just a transformer itself.

Before moving on linear PSU i tried to use PD trigger. A trigger pcb that spoof the PD protocol and ask for 9v or 15 v whatever. You can use any modern phone device with it.
I have bunch of Anker chargers at home and powerbanks. I made a LC filter for it to lower ripple noise it produce. So from powerbank (cleanest test whatever) to PD trigger -> stable load (a resistor) i got less than 8mV of ripple on 40W load (GT1000Core is ~6W and roland charger is 18W).
But it introduced HF excitation (as you see on the photo weird wave on a main noise wave). Since this such PSU aren't suitable to power such brilliant high tech device like we have.

Also i did my tests under stable load. Will measure today, but GT1000 (and other similar devices) must be a pulse loads, so it will make a much horrible results.

So if you want the best & clean, look for linear PSU metal shielded with a ferrite just ring before DC connector.

IMG_20250308_103529_020.jpg
 
One piece of linear PSU which will supply ~2A easily (rated for it due cable diameter & resistance) vs full pulse PSU w/ own cable rated for 9v & 2A.

PhotoCollage_1741428102583.jpg
 
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