Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

[Rex]

...I'm curious about the scale length vs truss rod length. I need to build a replacement neck for a bass with a 33-35" neck (broken truss rod). I want to make it 37". But I'm seeing varying things online, stating that a truss rod only needs to go to about the 12 fret, vs I need a custom long one, etc. What size rod would I need? It's a bolt on neck 7 string.

Thanks!

Scale length is the total length from the nut to the bridge. It’s not the length of the neck. A 37” truss rod would be longer than the neck itself. Where would you put it?

Your guitar was built to a specific scale length. You don’t want to mess with that.

The truss rod can only act on the part of the neck that’s between the neck joint and the nut, so that’s how long it should be.


But I’m confused — you say you’re building a neck. You’ll have to rout that neck to accept the truss rod. If it’s a preexisting neck, it’s already routed for a truss rod, and there’s already one installed. If you’re building the neck from scratch, take a moment to gather your thoughts. You’re asking questions that indicate that maybe building a neck from scratch is a bit too ambitious at this stage.

 

[bucephalus]

One humorless douche shouldn’t be enough to keep anyone away.

He performed a global block on him.

 

[Eagle]

Hello again people!
After spending some time in forum rehab I have decided to start contributing again.
I will try to make better use of the ignore button and stick to the facts ( my opinions ).
Work has been a lot of overpriced vintage with way too many parts changed to come close to the asking prices. The real good stuff continues to rise in ticket prices but I’m not seeing much change hands. So as usual the market is bullshit smoke and charlatans. What have I missed?

 

[BahamaDada]

What have I missed?

Guitarists have become crazy.

 

[Eagle]

Guitarists have become crazy.

No that’s always been the case.

 

[FuzzyAce]

Welcome back, Eagle!

 

[JiveTurkey]

Hello again people!
After spending some time in forum rehab I have decided to start contributing again.
I will try to make better use of the ignore button and stick to the facts ( my opinions ).
Work has been a lot of overpriced vintage with way too many parts changed to come close to the asking prices. The real good stuff continues to rise in ticket prices but I’m not seeing much change hands. So as usual the market is bullshit smoke and charlatans. What have I missed?

Good to see you back, Andy! We've kept the woodchipper warm

 

[panhardleft]

Hello again people!
After spending some time in forum rehab I have decided to start contributing again.
I will try to make better use of the ignore button and stick to the facts ( my opinions ).
Work has been a lot of overpriced vintage with way too many parts changed to come close to the asking prices. The real good stuff continues to rise in ticket prices but I’m not seeing much change hands. So as usual the market is bullshit smoke and charlatans. What have I missed?

Wow – it’s great to see you back, @Eagle I was honestly starting to feel a bit discouraged about the forum lately.

And yes, I’m also talking to you here, @Sascha Franck – my fellow German

The funny thing is that I actually enjoy reading most of your posts a lot. You clearly have a lot of knowledge and interesting perspectives. But sometimes the tone shifts and things become personal, which turns the discussion into something closer to ad hominem.

I’d really encourage you to keep it focused on the ideas — because your contributions can be genuinely valuable here.
So please keep contributing — and please continue those threads about triads. I thought they were excellent.

And especially when it comes to someone like @Eagle : I’ve personally learned a huge amount from his posts. I'm really looking forward reading more from you!!!

 

[yek]

Welcome back, @Eagle

 

[Sascha Franck]

But sometimes the tone shifts and things become personal, which turns the discussion into something closer to ad hominem.

Fwiw, regarding discussions with @Eagle, I have not even *once* been the one to start with the ad hominem BS. You possibly rather shouldn't have mentioned me in this thread.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Hello again people!
After spending some time in forum rehab I have decided to start contributing again.
I will try to make better use of the ignore button and stick to the facts ( my opinions ).
Work has been a lot of overpriced vintage with way too many parts changed to come close to the asking prices. The real good stuff continues to rise in ticket prices but I’m not seeing much change hands. So as usual the market is bullshit smoke and charlatans. What have I missed?

Good to see you back Andy. I've got a few questions and a guitar I need roasted. I'll post it later

 

[Sascha Franck]

And btw, all personal issues aside, welcome back from me, too, @Eagle.

 

[Alex Kenivel]

 

[CakeEater]

Welcome back @Eagle ! I have a question for you if you don't mind.

My very warm sounding PRS Custom 24 guitar still sounds muddy when I roll down the volume. It sounds great on volume 8-10, great and clean a <=4, but muffled between 4.5-7.5.

The pickups are a BareKnuckle PolyMath in the bridge and PolyPAF in the neck.
The volume and tone pots are 550k.
The treble-bleed is 220pF capacitor with a 100k ohm resistor in series.

I own other CU24s that are just naturallyrighter, but this guitar plays beautifully and has a nice deep sound acoustically, I just need to get the electronics to work.

How can I make the treble-bleed stronger? Is it possible to solder in an extra 220pF capacitor in parallel or should I remove the resistor? Would a 470pF capacitor be better?

Thanks.

 

[Eagle]

Welcome back @Eagle ! I have a question for you if you don't mind.

My very warm sounding PRS Custom 24 guitar still sounds muddy when I roll down the volume. It sounds great on volume 8-10, great and clean a <=4, but muffled between 4.5-7.5.

The pickups are a BareKnuckle PolyMath in the bridge and PolyPAF in the neck.
The volume and tone pots are 550k.
The treble-bleed is 220pF capacitor with a 100k ohm resistor in series.

I own other CU24s that are just naturallyrighter, but this guitar plays beautifully and has a nice deep sound acoustically, I just need to get the electronics to work.

How can I make the treble-bleed stronger? Is it possible to solder in an extra 220pF capacitor in parallel or should I remove the resistor? Would a 470pF capacitor be better?

Thanks.

I’d be tempted to try no treble bleed and 50’s wiring, failing that you could brighten up across the whole thing with a no load tone pot. Testing your alternative treble bleeds is easy and no money. You could test a bunch different values with croc clips. It’s difficult to estimate the effect of higher values without testing because they are detrimental to certain aspects imo . This is why I would give the 50s wiring a try. Experiment.

 

[metropolis_4]

Good to see you back!