Okay..... a touchy subject for the many.
With that said, put aside your preferences and your comfort zone instrument.
One last thing, not all of this is 100% conclusive but at least 95% is conclusive and supportable.
Let's start at the very start. An all original early 50s Tele, with a one piece maple neck & swamp body of course, is KING of the
elect guitar world for BIG and BOLD. For the very few that have actually held and played one themselves this sounds like pure BS and
I can understand why. They're as rare as rocking horse shite and very few people actually sell them, especially the good ones.
If you've played one you WILL know what's being said here.
Next up is a 55 Strat
(swampy again) where the pickups changed from the 1954 Strat but the rest of the guitar is identical.
Again, rare as rocking horse shite and if you've ever played an original yourself, you'd get it about swamp. You rarely see them for sale and for good reason.
The above 2 are absolutes and with the rest of the years and variations between Alder and Swamp it's a TOTAL crap shoot as it's the combination of parts and ESPECIALLY and SO IMPORTANTLY how the neck is bolted to the body. Neck angles and neck wood on body wood connection in the heel pocket. Saddle metal, fret metal, nut height, player attack, body resonance etc etc and the list goes on and on. Pickups? Certainly a factor but they're supposed to amplify what they HEAR from the guitar itself. Sure, you can fook with the pups and make variations to achieve 'something' but then you've 'altered' the upstream natural outcome of the physical guitar.
After playing guitars now for at least
300 - 400yrs and going through EVERYTHING that was made I have for 'me' a simple and consistent recipe for the guitar I want to play and hear. This combination covers all types of music..........................yes, including death metal.
1) A 3 pickup Strat
2) Pickups = doesn't matter
(within reason)
3) Neck = 7.25 radius, One Piece maple OR a super thin rosewood veneer fretboard
4) Frets = 6150
5) Bridge saddles = cold rolled steel like the originals of the 50s/60s. VERY IMPORTANT how the string exits the block over the saddle. The string MUST NOT touch the tremolo plate or saddle 'opening' when going over the saddle. The string runs hollow through the trem block BEFORE it curves ONLY over the saddle itself and nowhere else whatsoever.
6) Tremelo with 'original 50s/60s trem claw springs
VERY IMPORTANT the springs are
(Raw Vintage made some about 15yrs ago and they were AS GOOD as the originals)
7) Body = Light weight Swamp Ash where possible but I can settle on light weight Alder
8) Strings = 9-42
9) Action = VERY HIGH
10) Neck relief = a fully open truss rod.
(No neck straightening by the rod as you don't want to dampen the natural neck resonance at all)
11) An Ilitch Noiseless backplate
(Never play a Strat without one)
https://www.ilitchelectronics.com/hum-canceling-systems/strat-bpncs/
The above is somewhat detailed but it makes the world of difference if done.
A difficult guitar to play
but it rings like an acoustic guitar and when amplified it's a cannon.
That's my 2 cents worth for those who love this shite.
One final thing I must say............at the end of the day a GOOD song with GOOD vocals can't be beat so that's REALLY where we should ALL spend our time focusing on as
THAT matters far more than any guitar.