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HO-LEE-SHIT

haven’t played my IV in quite a while. This amp is absolutely bonkers across all 3 channels

Going into EVM thiele

This is why I love owning way too many amps. You go to visit an old friend you haven’t seen in a while and they give you the tonal blowjob of a lifetime :love
 
HO-LEE-SHIT

haven’t played my IV in quite a while. This amp is absolutely bonkers across all 3 channels

Going into EVM thiele

This is why I love owning way too many amps. You go to visit an old friend you haven’t seen in a while and they give you the tonal blowjob of a lifetime :love
Wait...there's three channels?!?!? :rofl
 
Booooooo!

.... my Mark V is poorly!
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Just dropped it off at the tech.
 
Both are cracked, aye. Need replacing, and the caps double checking too.
How old is your amp?

I should probably pull the chassis of my 2011 Mark V and see if it’s had any work done over the years. At least all the tubes were new.
 
How old is your amp?

I should probably pull the chassis of my 2011 Mark V and see if it’s had any work done over the years. At least all the tubes were new.
2015 judging by the chasis prints and the writing on some of the orange caps. I only bought it 2nd hand last year though. These things happen. I'm not worried, just gotta wait for my tech to fix it!
 
I need to bite the bullet and get my V into tech soon to fix my intermittent channel switching issue :cry:

The guy I've been working with recently wasn't interested in dealing with mark V relays. I think theres a couple authorized mesa techs in town though, I really don't want to have to ship it to california
 
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Something definitely has gone awry in this area!! And according to the board and schematic, those diodes should've been 4007, but they weren't according to my tech.

Looks like the tracks on the board are burnt out. Mod is going to be needed I think, coz the board itself looks like a pure fucking KNIGHTMARRRRRREEEEEE to get out of the chasis.
 
In happier news, found some nice tones from ch2 Edge mode.

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Following the manual is good advice for this mode. It does sound clearly different if you use high mids, lower presence vs vice versa. The treble needs to be a lot lower than any other mode because it can sound really harsh otherwise, and the bass knob can be turned up a lot more without problems.

No graphic or preset EQ needed. Running it at 45W here, hence the higher channel volume setting.

The Riverside with no knob EQ adjustments, mid push enabled and presence set to "minus" (less bite) or center (more bite) works great to kick it up to higher gain, giving more options to tweak it with your guitar volume knob.

I've also grown to like the combo and its Celestion/Mesa "Black Shadow" MC90 speaker. With the above settings I had both the combo speaker and the white Bluetone 4x10 w/ 10" Greenbacks peeking out in the back hooked up. Surprisingly the combo speaker still tends to dominate the sound (maybe just because it's closer to me) but the 4x10 adds a lot of "oomph" to the tone so together it sounds huge.

I'm powering the CIOKS 4 Expander with an old Truetone 1Spot. No noise issues doing it like that and enough juice to power at least 3 Strymons.

Also in happy tones: Flint's hall reverb with some pre-delay set to a somewhat dark Color knob setting sounds really nice and big. I still stand by the Flint as a great reverb. It just blends well with your base sound, instead of taking it over, especially when playing louder. It's not a reverb for people seeking tones where the reverb becomes "the thing", it's a reverb for juicing up your base tone.
 
I hope the tech can get access to all tech bulletins and accurate schematics from Mesa so they at least have guides on how to properly fix all that.

Those diodes seem like a pain in the ass to replace because they are so cramped in there, with risk of bumping your soldering iron against a cap, the two leads right in the middle of them, and a plastic push pin nearby. To lift the board up you'd likely need to disconnect a ton of wires from the board, so most likely the repair is to try to do it all from the top.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but they are in the circled area under the flat cable.

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Yep. Precisely. Taking the board out is a ballache. Since the tracks are damaged, I think he's just going to repair it without taking the board out, and perhaps hard-route around the tracks.
I remember reading on some forum that the intended way to replace those diodes is to clip a leg, desolder the other, then solder suck the leftovers from the clipped leg out or let them fall down into the chassis to be cleaned up. Then you pre-cut the legs of the new part to length and solder it in from the top.

The damaged tracks are for sure a challenge, hopefully the tech can figure out how to route around them.
 
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