Santiago Alvarez (electronics engineer, JVM, YJM, AFD...)

Hey Santiago,

as you mentioned you designed the JVM 410 with a 1960b cab with Celestion G12t-75 speakers.

Which cab and which speakers did you use to design the JVM1 50th anniversary heads?
I play a JVM1 head with a 10" mini stack cab at home. Any suggestions for a speaker upgrade? :)

By the way:
In my band I play a JVM 410 HJS, it's an fantastic amp. Just wanna say thank you! Next to my JCM 2000 DSL 100 it's my absolute favourite Marshall.

Greetings!
 
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Hey Santiago,

as you mentioned you designed the JVM 410 with a 1960b cab with Celestion G12t-75 speakers.

Which cab and which speakers did you use to design the JVM1 50th anniversary heads?
I play a JVM1 head with a 10" mini stack cab at home. Any suggestions for a speaker upgrade? :)

By the way:
In my band I play a JVM 410 HJS, it's an fantastic amp. Just wanna say thank you! Next to my JCM 2000 DSL 100 it's my absolute favourite Marshall.

Greetings!
Hi, the JVM was designed with a 4x12" as well, same G12T75 1960B model.

How about using the JVM1 with an IR at home, if you set it to low power mode on the back you can connect it directly to a computer interface or an IR processor and use any IR you like with headphones or studio monitors.
 
Just commenting here to appreciate your work @santiall .
I have started my Tube guitar amp journey with a Bugera 6262, and recently closed off (for now, haha!) with a JVM410H. Even though you weren't fully involved into the development of the 6262, it's a cool thing to come "full circle" in that regard. At least for now, new tube amps are certainly on the horizon ;-)

Just a question on the bias-ing of the JVM410H - I read all these current measures, like 30mA being cold, 40~mA being more preferrable, but all of this is of course in reference to the plate voltage. My question is: does the plate voltage fluctuates heavily from amp to amp, or is it pretty much 480V (not talking about tolerances of a Volt or 2), or is it another value? Reason I am asking is that although I am technically capable of reading out the plate voltage with my 600V multimeter, if I can spare that step I am working safer.
Also, posing this question allows me to thank you again for taking the time to engage in this forum. I have seen the Leon Todd videos, Tone Talk and read through the entire thread, and I find it absolutely remarkable, that you take the time to answer every single question with unparalleled patience - legend material there!
 
Just commenting here to appreciate your work @santiall .
I have started my Tube guitar amp journey with a Bugera 6262, and recently closed off (for now, haha!) with a JVM410H. Even though you weren't fully involved into the development of the 6262, it's a cool thing to come "full circle" in that regard. At least for now, new tube amps are certainly on the horizon ;-)

Just a question on the bias-ing of the JVM410H - I read all these current measures, like 30mA being cold, 40~mA being more preferrable, but all of this is of course in reference to the plate voltage. My question is: does the plate voltage fluctuates heavily from amp to amp, or is it pretty much 480V (not talking about tolerances of a Volt or 2), or is it another value? Reason I am asking is that although I am technically capable of reading out the plate voltage with my 600V multimeter, if I can spare that step I am working safer.
Also, posing this question allows me to thank you again for taking the time to engage in this forum. I have seen the Leon Todd videos, Tone Talk and read through the entire thread, and I find it absolutely remarkable, that you take the time to answer every single question with unparalleled patience - legend material there!
Hi, it is me who appreciates your appreciation!

The bias/plate voltage... ok, for any amp, not only the JVM, when we measure the current what wewant to do, albeit indirectly, is to calculate the plate (anode) dissipation. In a very simplified way, what we have is that the dissipated power is the product of the anode voltage by the anode current, so 480V multiplied by 35mA (480x0.035) equals 16.8W.
Now, a EL34 maximum plate dissipation power is 25W, 16.8W represents approx the 70% of that and 70% is the "adopted default internet standard" so there you go.. here we got a ballpark for any amp using EL34s and a HT voltage of around 500V. You bias to that and you are safe.

There are a couple of caveats though, what we measure is the cathode current, which is the anode current PLUS the screen current in a pentode or tetrode (EL34, 6L6, etc). That screen current is approx 10% of the anode current, so by calculating the power in excess, we are safe.

Why all this, because at the end if the plate voltage fluctuates, so will the current and hence the dissipated power. Do we care?, hmm depends on you to be honest. As per the calculations above, even if the current and plate voltage go up by 10%, the power will go up by 12% or so, instead of 16.8W, around 20W, which is 80% of the total anode power, still safe (rememeber that this numbers still include the screen power).

Does the plate voltage fluctuate... mostly depends on your mains voltage and your bias current. The higher the bias current, the higher the losses in the transformer so the plate voltage will go down. That's why biasing is always a bit of a back and forth process between tubes till you get to the value you want.

We don't have much control of the mains voltage unless you use an AC source or a voltage stabilizer. In most countries, the tolerance of the mains is "guaranteed" at +/-10%, in some Australian places with 240V, the max will be capped to +6% (which coincidentally is the same as 230V+10%). When designing an amp, we have to make sure that the amp operates safely at those raised mains voltages but for you, once again, depends on how picky or how tolerant (pun intended) you are about the exact bias values.

As for the multimeter, if you still feel wary of the voltages, I'd suggest you to get a couple of cable hook probe tips. I use them all the time and are safer than normal probes. The tip isn't as exposed until you press the button on the top and you can clip them before powering the amp on and/or to the bias resistors while adjusting the bias. These ones:
1745491554594.png


hope it helps!
Santiago
 
Has the JVM had 47K in series with the treble pots in every release, or was this something that started after a certain point?



No, the models don't have the same tone stacks.

However, our reference JVM410H has 47K resistors in series with the treble pots.

A JVM410HJS also has 47K resistors in series with the treble pots.

The question is whether our reference amp is incorrect or did Marshall start putting those resistors in there at some point. I suspect the latter.

One of the common complaints with the JVM410H is squealing when you turn the treble up. This is because the chassis is laid out incorrectly. The output transformer is on the wrong side and couples into the input stage.

I suspect Marshall changed the tone stack to reduce the crosstalk and address the squealing complaints.
 
Has the JVM had 47K in series with the treble pots in every release, or was this something that started after a certain point?


Hi, as far as I know never, at least not until I left in 2022. I haven't worked there for a while but I would be surprised if they were ever added. Much easier to use 250k pots, for example, than modifying a pcb that was designed with a software that isn't used anymore but who knows, as said, I haven't worked there for a while.
In any case, those resistors in the HJS version are to offset the tone control position and restore the total value to 250k, like in old Marshall amps. The standard JVMs have 200k pots as that what was being used in the DSLs as far as I remember. The treble caps are different too.
The HJS is darker mostly because the filter after the tone control and perhaps the tubes used.

Furthermore, I think they are using JJ preamp tubes all over nowadays, these are very dark and often have very low gain. Sometimes they almost feel like playing a guitar with the tone control down. They are consistant but to me a JVM sounds best with Shuguang or high gain Russian tubes. Tricky to find high gain and low noise /microphonic tubes, specially the input tube, but if you really want to experience the "JVM high gain" find some of those!
 
Hi, as far as I know never, at least not until I left in 2022. I haven't worked there for a while but I would be surprised if they were ever added. Much easier to use 250k pots, for example, than modifying a pcb that was designed with a software that isn't used anymore but who knows, as said, I haven't worked there for a while.
In any case, those resistors in the HJS version are to offset the tone control position and restore the total value to 250k, like in old Marshall amps. The standard JVMs have 200k pots as that what was being used in the DSLs as far as I remember. The treble caps are different too.
The HJS is darker mostly because the filter after the tone control and perhaps the tubes used.

Furthermore, I think they are using JJ preamp tubes all over nowadays, these are very dark and often have very low gain. Sometimes they almost feel like playing a guitar with the tone control down. They are consistant but to me a JVM sounds best with Shuguang or high gain Russian tubes. Tricky to find high gain and low noise /microphonic tubes, specially the input tube, but if you really want to experience the "JVM high gain" find some of those!

Awesome. Thanks very much!
 
@santiall -

Thank you for your amazing work at Marshall and your willingness to speak to us mortals. I own a 410H which I find equally thrilling and amazing as I do frustrating unfortunately. It’s a very hard beast to tame. I love the OD1 orange and red modes but really can’t handle the white noise hiss and the squeaking feedback at higher gain levels. I basically keep gain at 10 o’clock. I tried some of the settings you suggested and sadly, without the noise gate with 4 cable method, I can’t use the amp to it’s full potential.

I also have a JMD100 which I basically use as my practice amp with my band. In many ways, I find it superior because it has the JVM channels that I love plus an amazing noise gate that I can use with reverb and delay (I have an OD1 orange preset for my rhythm and a different preset for lead). Sadly I cannot replicate that experience on my JVM without foot pedal dancing when I switch from OD1 orange to red for leads.

In an ideal world, I could modify the JVM to have a built in noise gate for OD1/2 orange/red. I’ve seen you mention the KK noise gate. Is there anyway to mod the JVM to include that and/or to get rid of that hiss?

Thank you again! It truly is a magnificent amp… just a tad too hard to tame.
 
@santiall -

Thank you for your amazing work at Marshall and your willingness to speak to us mortals. I own a 410H which I find equally thrilling and amazing as I do frustrating unfortunately. It’s a very hard beast to tame. I love the OD1 orange and red modes but really can’t handle the white noise hiss and the squeaking feedback at higher gain levels. I basically keep gain at 10 o’clock. I tried some of the settings you suggested and sadly, without the noise gate with 4 cable method, I can’t use the amp to it’s full potential.

I also have a JMD100 which I basically use as my practice amp with my band. In many ways, I find it superior because it has the JVM channels that I love plus an amazing noise gate that I can use with reverb and delay (I have an OD1 orange preset for my rhythm and a different preset for lead). Sadly I cannot replicate that experience on my JVM without foot pedal dancing when I switch from OD1 orange to red for leads.

In an ideal world, I could modify the JVM to have a built in noise gate for OD1/2 orange/red. I’ve seen you mention the KK noise gate. Is there anyway to mod the JVM to include that and/or to get rid of that hiss?

Thank you again! It truly is a magnificent amp… just a tad too hard to tame.
I know you didn't ask me.... but in my honest opinion, don't worry about using the amp "to its full potential"

They are super gainy amps. Gainier than a 5150 in some ways. If 10 o'clock on the knob gets you where you want to be, then you are using the amp to its fullest potential, for your sound and your needs.

Gate-wise. I don't think it is possible to modify and put a noise-gate in. I'd suggest thinking about your rig in a more hollistic way. You've got the amp sorted. But you want less noise. So add something like a Fortin Zuul+ to the effects loop. The JVM can respond to midi changes. So get a midi controller and use it to switch presets on the amp (and maybe some effects pedals at the same time) and that way you can bring the Zuul+ in and out, depending on whether the FX loop is active in any particular preset.

That will help cut down on your tap dancing too.

The other solution could be - buy a Satriani JVM if you can find one. But just bear in mind that it is a different amp, and will sound different.
 
@Orvillain - I tried what you have suggested using the Boss GX100 but the tone suckage through the FX loop is intolerable. Maybe I’m using it wrong… but I’m working on it actively. I am trying a Zuul+ and will soon be trying a TC Electronic Sentry noise gate.

The problem is I can dial in a great sound in OD1 red that I love but I want more gain in OD1 orange. I think the answer may lie within learning to use OD2 better and maybe modding that to be OD1…
 
@Orvillain - I tried what you have suggested using the Boss GX100 but the tone suckage through the FX loop is intolerable. Maybe I’m using it wrong… but I’m working on it actively. I am trying a Zuul+ and will soon be trying a TC Electronic Sentry noise gate.

The problem is I can dial in a great sound in OD1 red that I love but I want more gain in OD1 orange. I think the answer may lie within learning to use OD2 better and maybe modding that to be OD1…
I used a GX-100 quite a time with a DIY Fryette-ish amp of mine, but in the same way - 4CM to use its gate in the loop (in my case hiss from the amp isn't the problem, but the hiss coming from the GX's stages befor ethe amp input, amplified by the amps gain stages...).
My amp only has a series FX loop, which is 100% transparent (using a long cable, or even a Boss DD-7), but I get an ever so slightly tone alteration, even in the most neutral setting of the GX 100 ("Line/Recording"). Did you try this setting? So the GX might not be the best device, although for me it was tolerable.
 
@santiall -

Thank you for your amazing work at Marshall and your willingness to speak to us mortals. I own a 410H which I find equally thrilling and amazing as I do frustrating unfortunately. It’s a very hard beast to tame. I love the OD1 orange and red modes but really can’t handle the white noise hiss and the squeaking feedback at higher gain levels. I basically keep gain at 10 o’clock. I tried some of the settings you suggested and sadly, without the noise gate with 4 cable method, I can’t use the amp to it’s full potential.

I also have a JMD100 which I basically use as my practice amp with my band. In many ways, I find it superior because it has the JVM channels that I love plus an amazing noise gate that I can use with reverb and delay (I have an OD1 orange preset for my rhythm and a different preset for lead). Sadly I cannot replicate that experience on my JVM without foot pedal dancing when I switch from OD1 orange to red for leads.

In an ideal world, I could modify the JVM to have a built in noise gate for OD1/2 orange/red. I’ve seen you mention the KK noise gate. Is there anyway to mod the JVM to include that and/or to get rid of that hiss?

Thank you again! It truly is a magnificent amp… just a tad too hard to tame.
HI, as the other guys told you, I don't think it'll be an easy task to add an internal gate. It is definitely doable but you will need the gate, then modify the amp, then probably modify the firmware if you want some sort of ability to switch it on/off.

It is much much easier to use a pedal like pointed above. Many pedals out there are actually copies of the gate in the KK amp... YOu shouldn't have any problem with the GX100 either but you need to either connect it to the programmable loop, set to 100% wet, or to the PA insert, which isn't switchable but if you have the GX on all the time it is probably a better option. Be sure you have set the levels right in the GX100
 
Hey @santiall , thanks for your answers a few days ago! Quick question: is the design of the regular JVM safe to allow for using a 12AT7 in the PI driver section, or should I rather go back to 12AX7?

Thanks again!
 
Hey @santiall , thanks for your answers a few days ago! Quick question: is the design of the regular JVM safe to allow for using a 12AT7 in the PI driver section, or should I rather go back to 12AX7?

Thanks again!
Hi, mu pleasure of course!
no problem using a 12AT7 or a 12AU7 but since they have lower gain, I'd expect the resonance and presence to be less effective
 
try to be methodical when testing the amp. Those noises when hitting the amp are, most likely, a microphonic tube. The thing is that sometimes it can be hard to know which one is the culprit. Try this:
1- remove all the preamp tubes, tap the power tubes. Is it noise?
2- add the phase splitter (the one closer to the power tubes) and repeat. Is it noisy now?
3- add the next tube. Tap the amp with the master both full and zero. Is it noisy?
4- add the next and repeat
5- do the tone controls affect the tone of the noise?
6- does the gain control affect it

I am quite sure it would be relatively easy to diagnose in person but it is hard to do remotely.
Also,that the EL34 tubes are new doesn't mean they work. Precisely right now I was working in an amp here with two brand new EL34s and one doesn't even heat up... dead, zero, nada.... nice...

Man you are right, I've run the tests and in the end it was the brand new el34s.

that's crazy. one or both (on day I'll test it) of a matched quartet never pulled out of their box. the other 2 are perfect.

Thank you so much for your help, I really, really appreciate that.

You are more than welcome, happy to help!

Hi Santiago, here I am again.

After less than 2 months and 20/30 hr of usage, power tubes failed again today.
Started with a short loss of power and "weight" in the sound, did it a 5 or 6 times and than amp had a big loss of power, sound integrity with added crackling.
I've turned off the amp, let it cool down, replaced the el34 with new ones and tested it for few minutes with no issues.

The el34s that failed today came from an old (8+ years) but never used matched quartet that had a DOA tube last time.
Now I've installed a pair of new, recently bought el34s.

I don't know what to think about this. might be that the quartet I have had issues or might me somenthing else.

As for now I'll wait to see if these el34 will fail in a short time too. That would be proof that there's somenthing else going on.

In the mean time, any suggestion of the possible cause of this behavior is appreciated.

cheers
 
Hi Santiago, here I am again.

After less than 2 months and 20/30 hr of usage, power tubes failed again today.
Started with a short loss of power and "weight" in the sound, did it a 5 or 6 times and than amp had a big loss of power, sound integrity with added crackling.
I've turned off the amp, let it cool down, replaced the el34 with new ones and tested it for few minutes with no issues.

The el34s that failed today came from an old (8+ years) but never used matched quartet that had a DOA tube last time.
Now I've installed a pair of new, recently bought el34s.

I don't know what to think about this. might be that the quartet I have had issues or might me somenthing else.

As for now I'll wait to see if these el34 will fail in a short time too. That would be proof that there's somenthing else going on.

In the mean time, any suggestion of the possible cause of this behavior is appreciated.

cheers
cases like yours aren't unheard of but, for peace of mind, I'd have the power amp checked. I'd make sure that all the components are correct, specially the screen resistors, biasing resistors and grid resistors. Then I'll make sure that the bias voltages are also where they should be.
If all that is good, there is not reason why your amp could be "killing" power tubes
 
cases like yours aren't unheard of but, for peace of mind, I'd have the power amp checked. I'd make sure that all the components are correct, specially the screen resistors, biasing resistors and grid resistors. Then I'll make sure that the bias voltages are also where they should be.
If all that is good, there is not reason why your amp could be "killing" power tubes

Thank you.

I've got a question, probably a silly one, but since there's a timing coincidence I have to ask.
The coincidence is that the issues began briefly after I've started using a custom pedal I've made build for me.

Is a pedal that switches the amp channel and, when the clean channel is selected, turns on an active circuit with an eq and a volume control.
The pedal takes the current from the pedal board power supply. When lead channel is selected the pedal is turned off but it's red led is turned on.

That led takes the current from the amp, via amp channel cable, and not the pedal board power supply.

Is there a chance that the pedal is messing around with the amp somehow?

I know, I know...sounds silly this one but you might never know.
 
are those noises you posted before in the video with your pedal connected?
regardless, you need to test the amp alone
 
are those noises you posted before in the video with your pedal connected?
regardless, you need to test the amp alone

No, those sounds came from the amp alone and all the issues I had happened with or without the pedal board connected.

As a further reference, I have to add that the first issue I had, with the original tubes, was a complete tube failure with wired noises, static, loud hum, power loss and so on.
The amp gave no signs of potential issues before the meltdown. I turned it in on and it was like that.

This time I get a brief intermittent loss of power that appears once the amp is warmed up and happens randomly every few minutes. Between the power losses the amp sounds perfectly fine.

Looking at the tubes I don't see strange glows, they illuminate correctly, evenly and just like the brand new tubes.

This morning , as a test, I've put on the "dead" tubes again and after few minutes ai got the power loss again therefore the issue is in the tubes (the cause unknown).

Since these tubes come form a JJ matched quartet that had a microphonic el34 right out of the box, I'm inclined to believe I've encountered a bad el34 batch.

I have no amp tech I trust near me (unfortunately the one I had died few years ago) therefore I'll wait and see what happens with these brand new tubes.

If they'll fail in the near future it will be proof that there's something else going on.

Thank you for your patience and support.
 
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