Rockboards (pedalboards)

[Sascha Franck]

Far too many possible points of failure for my taste.

But that's got zero to do with the board construction (which this thread is about) but with my lousy cabling skills (which, in fact, aren't all that lousy, they just don't look pretty).

And btw. I gigged that board more often than pretty much any other board (even if with some modifications over the years), not one single hickup. Besides, I always have a small backup of some sorts.

 

[Dave Lewis]

I got some of the 3M tape from Amazon because I’ve got one pedal over 4 Kg and I don’t trust Velcro to hold it onto the board .
I’ve just put some on my GigRig Quartermaster 10 because that’s going to have a lot of cables off it .
Thats not going anywhere now

 

[Chocol8]

I got some of the 3M tape from Amazon because I’ve got one pedal over 4 Kg and I don’t trust Velcro to hold it onto the board .
I’ve just put some on my GigRig Quartermaster 10 because that’s going to have a lot of cables off it .
Thats not going anywhere now
View attachment 47058
View attachment 47059

Those use cases are where 3M dual lock, double sided tape, or even screws make sense. 4 kg would require a lot of standard Velcro!

I move pedals around and don’t want them stuck too well, but for something like the Quartermaster, I might get out the drill and run some screws through the pedal board and into the foot screw holes (or whatever it has) to make it solid. I often screw in power supplies as well and like that Cioks includes threaded holes on the bottom and sides for that.

 

[Sascha Franck]

Those use cases are where 3M dual lock, double sided tape, or even screws make sense. 4 kg would require a lot of standard Velcro!

Fwiw, I've even fixated the Helix Floor with velcro - and only used some spots. To ensure it wouldn't move around during transport, I slapped a layer of thick foam on top and just closed the lid. Didn't even need much pressure for everything to securely stay in place.

 

[Dave Lewis]

Those use cases are where 3M dual lock, double sided tape, or even screws make sense. 4 kg would require a lot of standard Velcro!

I move pedals around and don’t want them stuck too well, but for something like the Quartermaster, I might get out the drill and run some screws through the pedal board and into the foot screw holes (or whatever it has) to make it solid. I often screw in power supplies as well and like that Cioks includes threaded holes on the bottom and sides for that.

The older GigRig switchers used to come with fixing brackets but they stopped doing them because of what it cost to make them apparently .
My WA Canvas 15 power supply comes with two metal fixing brackets and screws
It fits nice and dug

 

[dronerstone]

Iirc, there's even a Rockboard class D power amp that fits into their modular slots and has additional cab sim output, as well as a direct out/dry through.

Not shabby at all.

 

[the swede]

Iirc, there's even a Rockboard class D power amp that fits into their modular slots and has additional cab sim output, as well as a direct out/dry through.

Not shabby at all.

Correct! They have quite many “mod” units now.

I think I will be getting the PSU “mod” and this input thing that slots in on the right side in a hole.

Rockboard Mini Mounting MOD TRS

Pedalboard Extension Mounting solution for all RockBoard pedalboards, 1x TRS 6.3 mm jack socket to 2x TRS 6.3 mm jack socket, Fits into the mounting hole for the RockBoard LED Light, No drilling required, Dimensions (W x H x D): 20-25 x 35 x 70 mm,...

www.thomann.se

 

[Baba]

Fwiw, my last *really* big board sat in a case that was deliberately "console style", so that the side facing me was flat, but the rear part was high, with sloping sides. That way, all plugs and what not were nicely protected.
The current main board is somewhat similiar, as in being kind of an L-case. It's very old already, and back then I didn't consider console-style, which would be better as the L-portion is wasting some space on the lid and the switches all the way to the left/right might be a tad more difficult to operate. Yet, great protection for all the stuff in the rear.

View attachment 46975

(Got some velcro inside the L-part, though, allows me to "mount" one or the other cable there, but I usually don't do that)

That's actually a great idea. There are rare occasions where I'll use the club's wedge as "pedalboard protection", even if I'm not actually listening to the wedge itself.

 

[Sascha Franck]

That's actually a great idea. There are rare occasions where I'll use the club's wedge as "pedalboard protection", even if I'm not actually listening to the wedge itself.

Yeah. It's been many years ago when I just got sick of whomever it is to stumble over my precious outputs and what not. So I went with the L-case and later went console-style. If the L-board wasn't that great (it'll easily survive mankind), I'd likely replace it with a console-style one. But I might do that anyway one day...