the swede
Rock Star
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His "no" was to if there was an "official" pedalboard tape... :)
I know. The very prompt "no" made me feel ashamed of my self.... that i am such a nerd. I really am.
His "no" was to if there was an "official" pedalboard tape... :)
How do you handle transport?I know, I may sound like a broken record, but seriously: Why not go for a "semi-DIY" board? Yes, you would end up with something made of case plywood, but it's usually not heavier, doesn't take more space (but a handful of millimeters), but wood allows you to do easy modifications yourself and, even more important, you would start with exactly the right size, tilting and whatever form factor related things to start with.
I have been doing just that 3 times by now, went to a local casebuilder with the exact dimensions and had him cut a bunch of case plywood stripes in the very dimensions I wanted. Overall cost less than €50. I even got one for free as an addon of a case (another semi-DIY kit) that I've ordered.
How do you handle transport?
For me, despite only occasionally wanting to move a board, one of the issues is finding a suitable case or bag for it.
I made my first few boards. One wood, one a mix of wood and aluminum angle, and one out of aluminum angle and square tubing. I am not eager to do it again. The result wasn’t better and the savings didn’t justify the time.
Years ago, when the only pedalboards around that you could buy at the store were the plastic Boss and SKB ones, I used to build them in small ATA-grade mixer cases with plywood. This could be pretty heavy and didn't leave a lot of room for transporting cables and stuff like some of the bags do. Wish I had thought to take some photos back then, those got me thru a lot of rigs and bands.I know, I may sound like a broken record, but seriously: Why not go for a "semi-DIY" board? Yes, you would end up with something made of case plywood, but it's usually not heavier, doesn't take more space (but a handful of millimeters), but wood allows you to do easy modifications yourself and, even more important, you would start with exactly the right size, tilting and whatever form factor related things to start with.
I have been doing just that 3 times by now, went to a local casebuilder with the exact dimensions and had him cut a bunch of case plywood stripes in the very dimensions I wanted. Overall cost less than €50. I even got one for free as an addon of a case (another semi-DIY kit) that I've ordered.
I used to build them in small ATA-grade mixer cases with plywood.
The pieces on my Temple Board now all "fit" but there is no way in h#ll I am finding a case for it. Unless it's some HUGE foam filled flight case that adds 50lbs to the proceedings. Ugh.
I have a HUGE flight case I got with this board. It weighs a TON. I just wrap the board up in a thick piece of protective cloth and load it in the vehicle. I could also make something myself but this board is at the limits of what I want to schlep that ISN'T a big loud ampWhat about a custom case? If you have a case builder sort of close, they might offer you a similar semi-DIY kit. Over here the guys cut everything (super accurately) and all you need to do is the final assembling. Compared to a ready case the savings are around 50%. A case like the one shown comes in at around €200 instead of €400. And I always found the assembling to be fun (the guys over here would lend you rivet pliers and even some proper drill bits).
Apart from that, even Thomann has a case configurator and a pretty high-end-ish case would cost you around €300.
I have a HUGE flight case I got with this board. It weighs a TON. I just wrap the board up in a thick piece of protective cloth and load it in the vehicle. I could also make something myself but this board is at the limits of what I want to schlep that ISN'T a big loud amp![]()
that ISN'T a big loud amp![]()
It's probably at most 25lbs? It moreso the fact that it's wide and tall vs. the full weight of it. If it was the 28 or the 34; I'd just mount wheels and a handle on itWhat's the weight of the board?
(pepare for being called a wimp...)
I remember seeing a few touring bands back in the day using these cases with the L shaped lids, and I loved the idea, just didn't have access to that. I was always the guy standing up at the front for the set at smaller club shows, but then also really would check out setup and tear down between bands to see how everyone was traveling with their gear. Total nerd!Fwiw, my last *really* big board sat in a case that was deliberately "console style", so that the side facing me was flat, but the rear part was high, with sloping sides. That way, all plugs and what not were nicely protected.
The current main board is somewhat similiar, as in being kind of an L-case. It's very old already, and back then I didn't consider console-style, which would be better as the L-portion is wasting some space on the lid and the switches all the way to the left/right might be a tad more difficult to operate. Yet, great protection for all the stuff in the rear.
View attachment 46975
(Got some velcro inside the L-part, though, allows me to "mount" one or the other cable there, but I usually don't do that)
It's probably at most 25lbs?
Far too many possible points of failure for my taste. Any live rig I’ve ever used was simple to make troubleshooting a problem cable quick and easy. For home use, fine though.Fwiw, to kinda support what I wrote, here's a pic of the old larger board:
View attachment 46977
My lack of OCD aside (phew...), you can see how I had things pretty much in a way they would fit well, especially true for the Mooer loopswitcher (and partially the Stomp), which are sitting nicely on a single stripe of plywood mounted below.
The main layout was however made with some other pedals I used before.
And here's a gut shot (did I mention my lack of OCD already? Nice Boards Canada wouldn't approve for sure...):
View attachment 46978
So I could move things in and out as I see fit, nothing was fixed in the case, for transport duties I simply slapped a layer of foam on top so nothing would move around.