Current Main Floyd Pattern Trems

Ed’s preference for the sound of the Korean Floyd was down to the fact that his main guitars for years had bent steel baseplates
( the frt5 on 5150, the 1988 on MM and the ping on the PV ) . A German OFR is drop forged but the Korean one is bent and they do sound more like a vintage trem.
 
The floyd special has zinc saddles that strip out very easily. Budget for a set of steel saddles and all new bolts pretty soon. Better to just drop in a Gotoh. You can use the floyd special’s nut and studs.
 
I wonder if someone sells the bar
Sorry I misunderstood. You don’t need the bar on the Gotoh 1996 the head of the screw holds the spring.
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You can see the counter sink covers the spring hole.
 
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One other general point about all the supposedly upgraded parts that you can buy.
Titanium is not a good choice for Floyd parts. It is soft enough for a plain steel string to leave an impression that eventually stops holding the string altogether. It is actually worse in this situation than the steel part.
Full Ti trems sound thin compared with steel and the knife edges fail fairly quickly.
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This one was swapped out for a steel one (1984 model) and the guitar came alive. It also has trouble holding the high E however tight.
 
Someone above mentioned the Dtuna not fitting the Lockmiester well because the fine tuners part is thicker. First up it isn’t, the Dtuna was designed for the Gotoh 1988 originally and there is more room.
Even Ed would remove the spring on the bass E on his stage guitar;
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I don’t recommend this because the Dtuna moves around when you bend the trem slack and comes back slightly out. But this is because there’s barely enough room for it to work.
 
You need to set it up with the fine tuner almost all the way out for the low E .
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You can see here on Ed’s
You can also see that the baseplate is bent steel not forged and the saddles are die cast not CNC milled. So when someone says the Korean made OFR is the same as the German one they don’t know what they are talking about.
 
Finally the best one;
In over 30 years a tech I have Never had to replace a failed part on one of these. Yes the odd rusted part but this works and the metals used in each part are perfectly matched to the application.
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I just replaced my Original Floyd Rose 7 with the gotoh 1996T and it is AMAZING. No sharp parts, no poorly machined "maybe" tolerance parts. I don't have it in the gotoh posts as theyre bigger, so probably not ideal but this thing is better in every way than my OFR for me
 
I just replaced my Original Floyd Rose 7 with the gotoh 1996T and it is AMAZING. No sharp parts, no poorly machined "maybe" tolerance parts. I don't have it in the gotoh posts as theyre bigger, so probably not ideal but this thing is better in every way than my OFR for me
It’s not just you , it’s better in every way.
 
Someone above mentioned the Dtuna not fitting the Lockmiester well because the fine tuners part is thicker. First up it isn’t, the Dtuna was designed for the Gotoh 1988 originally and there is more room.
Even Ed would remove the spring on the bass E on his stage guitar;
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I don’t recommend this because the Dtuna moves around when you bend the trem slack and comes back slightly out. But this is because there’s barely enough room for it to work.
Then I have a fucked up D-Tuna. Because I have to crank the screw down so tight that it's difficult to actually slide the thing
 
I just replaced my Original Floyd Rose 7 with the gotoh 1996T and it is AMAZING. No sharp parts, no poorly machined "maybe" tolerance parts. I don't have it in the gotoh posts as theyre bigger, so probably not ideal but this thing is better in every way than my OFR for me
I like mine, but I also like some things about the OFR better. The only "new" Floyd I have currently is an OFR-7, though, so I don't know how a new one out of the box is.
 
I like mine, but I also like some things about the OFR better. The only "new" Floyd I have currently is an OFR-7, though, so I don't know how a new one out of the box is.
What do you prefer about the OFR?
 
What do you prefer about the OFR?
The fact that the fine tuners are flat. Them leaning backwards bothers me. I also think the intonation is easier to deal with when the screws aren't encapsulated by the saddles. It's all minor things.

This is a set up error.
I've had them on like 5 other guitars with OFRs, so I'm not just talking out my ass here. This is literally the only one I have this problem with, so assuming something is different about the Lockmeister wasn't a huge leap. The tail is definitely different than my older OFRs. I'll try a different D-Tuna on it when I get a chance, although that guitar doesn't have a stabilizer in it at the moment. ;)
 
The fact that the fine tuners are flat. Them leaning backwards bothers me. I also think the intonation is easier to deal with when the screws aren't encapsulated by the saddles. It's all minor things.


I've had them on like 5 other guitars with OFRs, so I'm not just talking out my ass here. This is literally the only one I have this problem with, so assuming something is different about the Lockmeister wasn't a huge leap. The tail is definitely different than my older OFRs. I'll try a different D-Tuna on it when I get a chance, although that guitar doesn't have a stabilizer in it at the moment. ;)
The lockmiester is made in the same die as the OFR, it is identical. Just start the setup with the fine tuner backed almost all the way out .
 
My favourite is the Floyd Rose Pro, and not the Pro 100.

They seemed to have just discontinued the PRO, although I'd like to find another one in black! they felt the best to me and have a slightly narrower string spacing.
 
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